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| Spiaggia
forgoes stereotypical dishes. |
Spiaggia enjoys a reputation as one of the finest Italian restaurants in
Chicago, a city with a disproportionate number of Italian eateries. But is
Spiaggia really among the best? Well, yes and no.
Chef Paul Bartolotta is indeed a talented chef. Certainly he has raised the bar
for Italian cuisine in Chicago, always insisting on the finest ingredients,
always updating his menu to reflect the best of the season. And the menu favors
a contemporary interpretation, forgoing the outdated, stereotypical items that
are habitually served at Chicago's most popular Italian restaurants.
Pan-roasted rabbit loin with braised baby artichokes was divine, the plate
sprinkled with Brussels sprout leaves and dotted with aged balsamic vinegar.
Fish stew was a work of art, a lobster-sized prawn the focal point in a fragrant
broth filled with mussels and clams, with croutons like sails.
That said, all is not well with Spiaggia. The service is pretentious, doting and
annoying in an attempt to be perfect. One waiter was snotty, another was nosy,
joining our conversation uninvited. On one visit, a waiter stood at attention a
mere three feet from our table, replenishing our water after almost every sip. I
half expected him to come butter my bread. And the food doesn't always live up
to the hype. Risotto on one occasion was dry, like paste. Squab, served bloody
rare, became lost in a sea of wine sauce with warm red grapes (too sweet).
"The menu is set up so you can order three courses," our waiter
pointed out on one occasion. About that, he was correct; the menu is divided
into appetizers/salads, pastas and main courses. But what he said next confused
us: "And you'll notice everything is priced to afford this option."
Huh? He's got to be kidding, we thought. Most entrees are priced in the $20s,
with pastas averaging $16, appetizers $13. We later learned what the waiter
meant to say was, we could order a three-course meal at slightly lower prices
(emphasis on slightly) than what were listed on the menu (with smaller portions,
too).
The dining room offers plenty of privacy for business diners or couples
celebrating anniversaries. And there are spectacular views of Lake Michigan and
Oak Street beach. A recent facelift improved the decor, adding a collection of
contemporary art along with new fabrics and Italian fixtures. Still, it's no
match for the fabulous design of offshoot Cafe Spiaggia next door.
—Brad A. Johnson
Who's there: Business diners in groups of eight and 10. Couples
celebrating birthdays and anniversaries, mostly the silver or golden varieties.
What to wear: Dress up. Jackets are expected but not required for men.
Most people here look like they're on their way to a charity ball.
Where to sit: Avoid the upper level just below the elevated piano. This
is waiter central and you'll begin to feel claustrophobic regardless how airy
the restaurant really is. Ask for a window seat or a booth on the lower level.
The Cafe: Cafe Spiaggia, the casual offshoot next door, provides a taste
of Bartolotta's innovative cuisine at a fraction of the cost. And the views are
just fine (so are jeans).
Photos: Kevin Tanaka
Scores are as high as the cost of entrees at this luxury Italian that's "by far the city's best"; Paul Bartolotta's pastas are "phenomenal" ("the tortellini can make you cry"), but you "can't get a bad meal" regardless of what you order; the
"romantic", "vibrant dining room" is "beautiful", as are its "spectacular views" of the lake and Michigan Avenue; add "exquisite service" that is "dedicated to detail" and you have "a great place to impress whomever you're with."
Zagat Survey
